Like everything else on a restaurant’s menu, dessert moves to the rhythm of the seasons. That’s why I should tell you sooner rather than later if a treat makes me particularly awestruck before it goes away with the wind. Here are a few candies that I thought about long after the last bite was licked off the plate.
Homewoods
… Heavenly sorbet
It’s no secret that Maggie Huff, the acclaimed pastry chef at this Oak Lawn restaurant, is a dessert connoisseur. (We just got Homewood one The best of Big D Finally nod towards dessert.) The playful sweet and savory mash-ups will bring out your taste buds in the best possible way. One of Huff’s newest creations, a cantaloupe and honeydew sorbet with labne, a scoop of basil granita, shiso, olive oil and sourdough crunchies made from black pepper, does just that. The crispy, cold basil granita isn’t too herbaceous Basil is sweet. It goes well with the absolutely soft sorbet, which tastes as if the melons had been picked directly from the vine, heavy with ripeness and only a few moments before it comes on the table, processed into this creamy ice cream treat. A whole world of texture takes place in a small dessert plate – a wonderful world.
The Thunderbird station
… Increased snack cakes
The short but sweet dessert menu at this Deep Ellum gas station turned into a bar feels like a nod to the plastic-wrapped goodies from gas station pit stops. The delicacies come from pastry chef Diana Zamora from Nenas Postreria. There is a Fresas-Con-Crema snack cake that not only suggests a strawberry flavor, but rather oozes the true sweetness of the berry than an obtrusive doppelganger. The Cinnamon Cream Pie is a flavored oatmeal biscuit sandwich that hugs a thick swirl of cream cheese and buttercream filling. It tastes like the after school snack you would want when you grew up. And the Hazlenut Ding Dong, a nod to the hostess cake in the same design, has a nutty nuance that dwarfs the normal old chocolate version.
Khao noodle shop
… Coconut Bua Loy
It’s not often that you are drawn to a dessert soup, but listen to me. Chef and owner Donny Sirisavath made this chilled dessert last year before the pandemic, and I don’t think it’s getting the love it deserves. His Bua Loy, which means “floating water lily” or “floating lotus” in Lao, was the favorite dessert of Sirisavath’s late mother. (And she owes Sirisavath his love and knowledge of Laotian food.) Back to that chilled soup dessert, in which purple potato dumplings and taro slices float in pandan-soaked coconut cream, the sweet liquid is then garnished with toasted sesame seeds and green onions – yes, an allium is welcome here! – kaffir lime leaf and sea salt. It’s both sweet and savory; it is tough and yet slurpable; It’s exactly the hot weather dessert that I love.
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