Highly anticipated ‘Italian-ish’ restaurant Sister debuts in Dallas in place of The Grape

The owners of The Charles wasted no time in making their new Italian-Mediterranean restaurant, Sister, feel at home on Greenville Avenue.

Although it’s only a few days old, the Greenville Avenue Restaurant Sister already feels inhabited, with its blue and white checked tablecloths and plates hanging on the wall like a trattoria. (Ben Torres / special article)

It was open less than 24 hours when I walked in, but is meant to make it feel like it’s been part of the neighborhood for decades. There are plates on the wall, floral wallpaper and curved purple benches on which groups of four can huddle together for a cozy dinner with appetizers, pasta and wine.

“We wanted it to feel warm and cozy. It had to feel like a trattoria, ”says managing partner Chas Martin. They like those “ish” words: it’s an Italian-themed restaurant run by a team of people who aren’t Italian but love Italian food.

That old-is-new vibe was in a place like 2808 Greenville Ave. almost indispensable: The Grape, a lovable bistro, stood here for 47 years. It was closed at the end of 2019 and the aging building needed a facelift. Developer Mike Ablon bought the building (you know its name because he ran for mayor’s office in 2019). The restaurant has been under construction for over a year.

“The Grape was a cultural institution in Lower Greenville for over four decades. It was our intention to preserve the building and the neighborhood and to attract the best talent from Dallas to design the space for decades to come, ”says Ablon.

Sister doesn’t have the tight corners of The Grape, white tablecloths or yellow lighting. But maybe you can still feel his spirit.

Sister is also not a misplaced version of The Charles, Martin emphasizes: It’s in a new neighborhood and shouldn’t be a place where you have to see and be seen. None of the menu items in The Charles has been served in the Sister so far.

The octopus Panzanella at Sister is tangy, like the Schmear from Nduja, and salty, from the salted octopus. You shouldn’t, but this is the type of dish you almost want to eat with your hands, grabbing each piece of focaccia and pulling it through the nduja.(Ben Torres / special article)

Sister’s menu is more Mediterranean than The Charles. The beet and avocado starter is one of Chef Matt Gold’s favorite dishes. It’s gorgeous, with a purple beet and tahini bottom topped with a wreath of avocado, tomato, and puffed wild rice.

The chefs are led by the culinary director J. Chastain. In a healthy twist, his wife Sarah was head chef at the same address as it was The Grape.

At Sister, Chastain and Gold show their interest in going beyond Italy with the Turkish Köfte. Each beef and lamb scoop comes with a tomato and garlic sauce called piperade, plus feta and jalapeño.

I haven’t tried them yet, but a small menu with vegetable side dishes looks delicious. There are charred carrots served with dates, flavored cashews, and whipped feta; Broccolini with figs and pistachios; and crispy sunchokes with green goddess dressing.

Pasta is a must. Options include a slightly hot Calabrian chilli ravioli; a Bolognese with wild boar; and pappardelle with cacio e pepe cream and mushrooms.

Larger plates like swordfish, grilled lamb collar, or chicken marsala can all be shared for those who want to eat family style.

A starter made from salmon, radish and orange blossom is light and light. Sister opened on September 28, 2021 on Greenville Avenue in Dallas.(Ben Torres / special article)There are three desserts on sister’s menu for the time being. Here is the double chocolate bar with flour-free chocolate cake and frozen chocolate mousse.(Ben Torres / special article)

Interestingly enough, Chef Gold says he’s most proud of the desserts. The double chocolate bar is hard to skip: it’s a flourless chocolate cake with frozen chocolate mousse, toasted meringue, cherry mezcal puree, and smoked rice. It’s as delicious as it looks, and I can only imagine the East Dallas residents reaching in and scratching up the last bites as they watch Greenville Avenue begin after dark.

Sister is one of the most anticipated restaurant openings of the year in East Dallas, and neighbors have been whispering about its debut for months. The knowledgeable people called it Charlie like it was The Charles’ little brother. And it is. But the name didn’t last.

“This is a sister restaurant to The Charles,” says Martin. “We liked Sister’s ambiguity.”

Sister is 2808 Greenville Ave., Dallas. Reservations recommended through Resy; Seats in the bar are first come, first served. Sister opened on September 28, 2021.

What’s opening next to Sister on Greenville Avenue?

At the end of 2021, Martin and his team are planning to open an Italian café and market. It could be called Duro Provisions, named after The Charles and Sister’s parent company. It couldn’t be.

The tiny, 900-square-foot café sells sandwiches, coffee, and wine all day.

Customers can also enjoy pasta cooked in the restaurant to prepare a simple dinner at home.

Duro Provisions (that’s a working name) will be at 2804 Greenville Ave., Dallas, next to Sister.

For more food news, follow Sarah Blaskovich on Twitter @sblaskovich.

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