Leo Morales is serious about ribs. Not even a thick beard can hide the excitement and strain on his face when he speaks of ribs. It comes from a love work that was developed through years of experimentation and cooking. In fact, he’s so proud of his ribs that he’s ready to make a bold claim.
“I tell everyone that our ribs are some of the best you can get in Texas,” says Morales. “I claim they are the best in Texas, but that’s just my confidence. Thats only me.”
He does not shrink from his belief either. Morales is so confident that his ribs are the best that he proudly printed the slogan “Home of the best ribs in Texas” on the back of T-shirts that his employees wear at his new restaurant, the Parry Avenue Barbecue Company (PABC).
Aside from ribs – beef ribs on weekends – the PABC menu offers a variety of meats and side dishes. Of course there are sausages and brisket, but with a twist. Ground birria is what makes home sausage. Tacos will also be on the menu. Birria tacos are made with beef brisket, while the Al Pastor is made with ribs and pork butt. Morales describes his barbecue as “Texican”.
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“I don’t know if you can tell, but I’m Latin,” says Morales. “I’m half Colombian, half Mexican. So my passion for tacos is ridiculous, but I also like empanadas and chorizo. I try to incorporate that into my food. “
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The restaurant is currently under renovation and will fully open in December.
Doyle Rader
What’s even more fascinating is that he offers a smoked seared sirloin cap picanha – a steak with a different name. There will also be pork belly burned ends every day. As a side dish, he offers some traditional favorites – coleslaw, mac and cheese, potato salad – as well as some original items like smoked Brussels sprouts and cauliflower mac and cheese.
Located a few blocks north of Fair Park, named for the street it is on, PABC is in a long-abandoned white building with blue moldings along the roofline next to the former Bo-Leo’s Taco Shack, now part of PABC is. Morales is remodeling the interior, and when finished, the roughly 2,000-square-foot space will house a dining room and bar with full access to the property’s large back yard.
In the back yard is PABC’s gem: a black, worn 1,000-gallon offset smoker named “Little Mama” sitting on a covered trailer. Morales picked it up from his friend Chad Sessions, who owns Smoke Sessions Barbecue in Royse City. It’s on the trailer that Morales and co-pit master Derek Parker will be spending much of their day in.
“I’m buried in the smoker all the time,” says Morales. “I love to sit in the smoker. I do not know why. I love it. The food comes out, I love the feeling of everything about it. Texture, feel, smoke. Grill.”
This isn’t the first time Morales has grilled. The veteran chef has worked in some of Dallas’ most notable restaurants over the years. He started out at Nick & Sam’s in the area, ran the Smoky Rose barbecue place near White Rock Lake, and most recently was the culinary director of Barrel & Bones Craft Bar and Smokehouse. Now he has his very own place.
“A lot of places try to name their place after your name, like ‘Morales Barbecue’ or ‘Leo’s Barbecue’,” says Morales. “But when I saw that sign, I thought, ‘No, you can’t take away what it is for this place and this part of town.’ So, it’s Parry Avenue Barbecue Company. It’s just natural. ”
The indoor dining area on Parry Avenue won’t open until December. Imagine a relaxed, retro atmosphere of the late 70s and 80s with live music outdoors. Although a full opening still has months to go, Morales doesn’t let himself be stopped from serving his smoked offerings. From Tuesday September 21st he will be serving smoked meat for lunch from a trailer parked in front of the building with his signature sign.
Those who want to learn the secrets of his ribs can stop by and order a rack or catch him during his Celebrity Chef demonstration at the State Fair of Texas on October 1st. He keeps his technique simple – flavor it, smoke it well, finish it – but it’s the attention to detail that sets it apart.
“There are so many people out there who grill a lot better than me and they do it great,” says Morales. “But we’ll be tough every time you try it is the best.”
Some random news over the weekend: Morales took first place this weekend for his ribs in the Fraternal Order of Eagles’ 10th annual grill cookoff.
Parry Avenue Barbecue Company, 4300 Parry Ave. Visit Facebook for days and hours.
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